The dusty little hamlet of Marfa, long associated with Minimalist artist Donald Judd, came into focus recently through some controversy caused by Playboy Enterprises, whose installation of a quasi artwork/advertisement by Richard Phillips along one of its highways so angered locals that one ended up filing a complaint. But Marfa isn’t the only West Texas town to have attracted artists over the years, or to have raised some amount of art-related contention: Georgia O’Keeffe got locals talking when she sported male clothes in the Panhandle while teaching at a local university in 1916. Robert Smithson created his last work in Amarillo 40 years ago this summer. And along with its stellar collection of European art donated by Samuel Kress, the El Paso Museum of Art offers psychogeographical tours of the city via goat-walking. Below are some highlights of Texas art viewing.
Chinati Foundation, Marfa
While Richard Phillips’s installation in Marfa may be a knock-off of “15 Untitled Works in Concrete, 1980-1984,” one of Donald Judd’s most iconic installations, you can see the actual works at the nearby Chinati Foundation. Founded by Judd in 1986, the Chinati Foundation is comprised of 15 buildings spanning a 340-acre property in the high Chihuahuan desert. Still serving as a lightning rod attracting artists to West Texas, the foundation presents and preserves the large-scale public works that Judd originally commissioned for the Dia Foundation, along with other large-scale installations by his contemporaries like Dan Flavin, John Chamberlain, and Roni Horn, all of which — as per the Chinati’s mission — engage the surrounding landscape. For the ultimate Judd experience, make sure to get out there for Chinati Weekend in October.
The Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo
While Judd transformed the landscape of Marfa with his cool minimalism, several hundred miles north, another West Texas town, Amarillo, got a makeover of a wackier variety courtesy of patron Stanley Marsh 3. One of the most notable works that Marsh commissioned was the Cadillac Ranch, a set of ten Cadillacs planted vertically in an open field. Visitors driving by on Historic Route 66 are encouraged to pull over and spray-paint the cars. Created in 1974 by the art collective Ant Farm, this “Stonehenge of the Panhandle” has become a popular icon and put the sleepy cattle town on the map: Bruce Springsteen has sung about it, Vogue used it as a backdrop for a fashion spread, and it was featured in a French television commercial. Most recently, as Marsh 3 was sued by several former employees and later indicted for sexual assault, residents clamored for the Ranch to come down. For now though, it’s still standing.
Amarillo Ramp, Amarillo
Earthworks artist Robert Smithson died 40 years ago while surveying a patch of private property in Amarillo for the creation of his “Amarillo Ramp.” A partial ring of packed sandstone shale 15 feet high and 3 feet wide, situated on a former lakebed that is now totally dried out, The Ramp — which was also commissioned by patron Stanley Marsh 3 — was completed in 1973 with the help of artists Richard Serra and Nancy Holt. And though it is much eroded from its original majestic shape, as with most of Smithson’s outdoor installations, it was, in fact, intended to reflect natural processes of erosion and decay. It has been said that another factor influencing the desirability of the property for his work was its conflicted ownership, which was disputed amongst members of the Marsh family. You can see this work only by private tour. But it’s worth it.
Judd Foundation, Marfa
Recently, much anticipation and fanfare surrounded the opening this spring of Judd’s New York residence and studio at 101 Spring street. But if you really want to get a sense for how Judd lived, you’ll have to travel to Marfa, Texas where he spent the bulk of his time following his move down to this region of Texas in 1971. Judd bought up property and ranch lands all around Presidio County, converting them into living and working spaces: A former Safeway grocery store became his art studio, a 1930s hotel is now a conservation studio, and the offices of the U.S. Army’s Quartermaster Corps became “The Block”, Judd’s residence, which includes a Judd-designed swimming pool, a private garden, and a personal library. At the various properties, you can see permanent installations by Judd and the art he collected.
Prada Marfa, Marfa
Before Playboy Marfa stirred up controversy along U.S. Highway 90 in the desert town, there was Prada Marfa. The permanent installation, built in 2005 by art duo Elmgreen and Dragset along the same roadway, recreates a Prada storefront displaying shoes and handbags selected by Miuccia Prada herself from the Fall/Winter 2005 collection. Though intended to deteriorate into the natural landscape without ever being restored, those plans changed when, three days after its unveiling, vandals broke into the faux storefront, stealing shoes and handbags and spray-painting the exterior wall with “Dumb” and “Dum Dum.”
“The X” or “La Equis,” Juarez, Mexico (at El Paso border)
The troubled border between Juarez and El Paso, the scene of many fatal drug-related shootouts, has long inspired writers and artists. Now, there is a permanent work of art to mark the blood-addled spot. While not actually in Texas, “The X,” or “La Equis,” situated in Juarez, Mexico on the south bank of the Rio Grande, was designed by Sebastian, an artist from Chihuahua, in honor of the blood spilled in the drug wars in Juarez. This nearly 200-foot-tall public art piece along César Chávez Border Highway, completed last spring, was also the subject of some controversy when it was first approved by the city six years ago at a cost of $2.8 million, causing critics to rail against government art spending.
The Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum, Canyon
Described as “the Smithsonian with a Texas accent,” the Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum has the most comprehensive historic art collection in the state of Texas, with some 8,000 objects of Southwestern, Texas Impressionist, and European art. Included in the permanent collection is “Red Landscape,” one of the four paintings that Georgia O’Keeffe completed while living in the panhandle where, from 1916-1918, she headed up the art department at West Texas State Normal College (now called West Texas A&M University). The museum recently added to its collection artifacts from her time there including her travel trunk containing some of her art books and her bed, along with an orange crate she used as a night stand and a desk from her classroom at Normal. These objects, along with the painting and photographs that were in the collection, are now part of a permanent installation dedicated to O’Keeffe. The museum also has smart, alluring shows that you’d never get this side of the Mississippi like “Wild and Wacky Weather on the Panhandle Plains” (through February 2014), which uses specific historic weather events to explore forces behind West Texas weather and offers visitors the chance to experience a simulated tornado.
Amarillo Museum of Art, Amarillo
Don’t let Amarillo’s dusty cattle-ranching exterior fool you. The West Texas city, which is roughly the size of Rhode Island, has long been a nexus for important artists, and for a time it was something of a wormhole for modernist artists of the New York School. Thanks in part to artist and art dealer Dord Fitz whose Area Arts Foundation (AAF) hosted seminars and workshops, the conservative oil rich city soon saw the likes of Elaine de Kooning, Alex Katz, and Louise Nevelson on its turf. The Amarillo Museum of Art, which has the AAF collection on permanent loan, touts works by many of these visiting artists, and those in their circle, including Nevelson, Franz Kline, and Helen Frankenthaler. There are watercolors by Georgia O’Keefe (who also taught in Amarillo) and several works by John Marin, as well as work by artists in their circle like Edward Steichen, Edward Weston, Paul Strand, and Alfred Stieglitz. Over the past ten years, the collection has grown dramatically thanks to a donation by Dr. and Mrs. William T. Price of Amarillo. Their donations of sculpture, prints, paintings, and textiles from Southeast Asia, Japan, and the Middle East have introduced Asian art and culture to the Panhandle.
El Paso Museum of Art, El Paso
First accredited in 1972, the El Paso Museum of Art is best known for the Samuel Kress collection of European art from the 12th – 18th century including works by Canaletto, Artemisia Gentileschi, Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, Filippino Lippi, and Anthony van Dyck, among many others. Also, where else can you partake of “goatwalking,” a series devoted to walks with goats. Created by artist Christine Foerster, this tour offers a psychogeographic view of the city, and gets documented on the Goatwalking blog.
Buddy Holly Center, Lubbock
Of Lubbock’s many works of public art, one very recognizable one is the outsize pair of glasses at the Buddy Holly Center, a museum devoted to the legacy of the singer who called Lubbock home. The glasses, which replicate Holly’s signature specs, are a work by local artist Steve Teeters, whose sculptures can be seen in and around Lubbock. The Center is situated in an historic railway depot and has several exhibition and concert spaces devoted to the music and art of Lubbock and West Texas, including one guitar-shaped gallery, which offers a permanent show of all things Buddy Holly, including the musician’s Fender Stratocaster, a songbook, clothing, recording contracts, tour itineraries, and Holly’s actual glasses.
To see artwork in West Texas, click the slideshow.