The Austrian city of Salzburg is famous for being many things: the birthplace of 18th-century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the setting for “The Sound of Music,” and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, thanks to its Baroque architecture. But for gallerist Thaddaeus Ropac, of Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, it is the mix of the old and new in the city that is its most alluring quality.
The Austrian city of Salzburg is famous for being many things: the birthplace of 18th-century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the setting for “The Sound of Music,” and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, thanks to its Baroque architecture. But for gallerist Thaddaeus Ropac, of Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, it is the mix of the old and new in the city that is its most alluring quality. He’s partial, for instance, to the Unipark, a campus in the University of Salzburg in the medieval district of Nonntal. Designed by Hannover-based architectural firm Storch Ehlers Partner, the building is, as Ropac describes it, “a most successful synthesis of contemporary and audacious architecture in historic surroundings.” Meanwhile, his favorite Baroque masterpiece is the Hellbrunn Castle, near Morzg, a southern district of Salzburg. Built between 1613 and 1619 by Italian architect Santino Solari on commission from Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, and named for the "clear spring" that supplied it, the castle is just 20 minutes from the city’s center, putting it at a handy distance when one is craving a long walk or bicycle ride. Personally, Ropac prefers to jog the route, each time he is in town.
Schwarzstraße 5-7, 5020 Salzburg; 43 (0) 662 889770
For the best place to pick up some new threads, Ropac recommends Dantendorfer—a multi-label boutique for men and women stocking brands like Fratelli Rossetti, Tory Burch and Charles Philip—and Dschulnigg for luxury accessories. Since its founding in 1946, the store, being also a purveyor of hunting apparel and rifles, has drawn high-profile clients such as His Royal Highness, Charles, Prince of Wales. If you’re looking for sartorial souvenirs with a more cultural flavor, look no further than Jahn-Markl for traditional Austrian clothing and world famous hand-stitched lederhosen.
Residenzplatz 3, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 842610
Getreidegasse 33, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 84326172
Griegasse 8, Salzburg; 43 662 8423760
Of course, art is never far from the gallerist’s mind, and he heartily recommends visitors to the city to partake of the Walk of Modern Art, a monumental outdoor art project comprising 12 intriguing artworks throughout the city, including Jaume Plensa's Awilda and Marina Abramovic’s interactive "Spirit of Mozart.” There are also works by Anselm Kiefer, Tony Cragg, James Turrell, Mario Merz, and Stephan Balkenhol.
Otherwise, a good way to get far from the madding crowd is to find peace in the St. Sebastian Church and Cemetery. “It’s a contemplative place—and also where Mozart’s family members have found their final resting place,” said Ropac. (The composer himself is buried in Vienna.)
Another site off the beaten path is the Hohe Weg—a footpath from Fortress Hohensalzburg alongside the Mönchsberg, with a marvelous view on churches, monasteries, and the Festival District.
Mönchsberg 32, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 842220403
Ignaz-Harrer-Straße 79, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 80443800
Hellbrunn, Furstenweg 37, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 8203720
Linzer Gasse 41, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 875208
Eating and shopping in Salzburg is a similar mélange of the traditional and modern. Take the Blaue Gans, a modern hotel and contemporary restaurant with walls that are more than 650 years old and a kitchen that would still impress the Habsburgs were they around today, serving up delicious historic Austrian cuisine (like backhendl, or fried breaded chicken).
Getreidegasse 41-43 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 842491
Mönchsberg 32, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 841000
Schwarzstraße 5-7, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 874278
To unwind, Ropac typically heads to his favorite watering hole: the bar at the ancient Hotel Goldener Hirsch, where many artists are also known to hang out, and where showgoers to the famous Salzburg Festival grab a tipple in between performances. “It’s the best chance to bump into whoever you always wanted to meet,” quipped Ropac, who suggests ordering the Susanne —a vodka-based drink mixed with orange juice and cassis. Legend has it that Susanne was a young girl who used to visit the bar with her parents. While her parents sipped their liquor, she had orange juice. When she turned 13 years old, the bartender added tonic water; when she was 16, Campari, and 18, vodka—which explains the drink’s enduring appeal. As Ropac summed it up: “As the years passed, the drink contained more alcohol than juice...”
Getreidegasse 37, 5020 Salzburg; 43 662 80840
