One of North Africa’s least travelled regions, Libya’s Western Mountains is an area crying out to be discovered
One of North Africa’s least travelled regions, Libya’s Western Mountains – the Jebel Nafusah– is an area crying out to be discovered. Inhabited by both Arabs and Amazighs (Berbers), the dramatic terrain is dotted with villages steeped in history, which are a delight to explore. Most settlements have a well-preserved old quarter, some of which hold cleverly designed ancient qasrs (granary stores), which acted as food banks for the local populace. Old dwellings, mosques with vaulted ceilings and ancient olive oil presses are also identifiable. – By Claudia Woszczyk
The Amazigh people are famed throughout Libya and the wider region for their hospitality and culinary specialities. Ftat, a traditional flat bread cooked underground in a wood-fired oven, remains a staple food in the villages, with most modern homes still boasting an outside ftat oven.
Despite some obstacles Amazigh culture is enjoying a resurgence in post-revolution Libya . There is a strong and renewed sense of Amazigh cultural identity after having been harshly surpressed under the previous regime. For the first time in decades the written language is being taught in local schools and Amazigh language radio stations have been set up.
In the centrally located mountain town of Yefren a small traditionally designed boutique-cum-homestay guesthouse is ready for foreign tourists with open arms.
Elsyien House is a quaint family run business, indeed it is the family’s former home. It is located on the outskirts of Yefren, with wide spanning views across the countryside. The attention to detail is immaculate, with traditional crafts and arts in each room. The kitchen, which is brimming with traditional cooking and serving implements, is open for guests to use. Traditional meals are also available as requested.
There are four bedrooms in the main building and a delightful private courtyard. Each bedroom is bespokely designed, complete with traditional clothes hanging on the wall for those who wish to dress up for a unique photo opportunity. Certain rooms have raised sleeping platforms as per the historical traditions of the region.
Each room also has a floor-level cushioned seating area, and adorning the walls are old photos, handmade crafts and pottery. The balance between modern comforts and tradition has been struck perfectly.
There is also a reference to more recent history, one of the rooms has a photo gallery showing the men of the Jebel Nafusa transporting the wounded to the nearest hospital by donkey due to the chronic fuel shortages that became a fact of life during the 2011 revolution.
The pièce de résistance is the additional en suite subterranean cave room with a large function area also available for dinners. The room is immaculately decorated in the same style as the rest of guest house and the strategically placed lighting adds to the ambience. Such troglodyte dwellings were typical of the Jebel Nafusah region and beyond, so the chance to stay in such a wonderfully designed one in Libya is quite exceptional.
One can also dine al fresco in the guesthouse’s garden terrace which looks out onto the countryside surrounding Yefren. In the Spring months the fields blossom with wildflowers and the air of tranquility is heavenly.
Elsyien House, Yefren, Jebel Nafusah, Libya: Standard room 30 LYD per night / Troglodyte room 80 LYD per night
