Canvases spotted on the Fall 2014 catwalks were some of the most diverse and delightful in recent seasons. References ranged from literal — like Novis’ soft, muted iteration of Paul Klee’s “Ancient Sound” on wool bomber jackets or Yeohlee's De Stijl collection — to abstract, such as Lela Rose’s sartorial interpretations of El Bulli’s molecular gastronomy, using feathers, lace and silk to ethereal effect.
Even Instagram showed its mettle as a style influencer: Lisa Perry, inspired by the humorous and creative gaffer tape art by illustrator Donald Drawbertson (whose Instagram handle is @donalddrawbertson) turned some of his bold, graphic motifs into runway-ready looks, playing with both proportion and pops of color.
Reed Krakoff, presenting his first collection since the corporate divorce from Coach Inc., showed immaculately tailored, feminine silhouettes, mixing sheer materials with metallics, and punctuated with dots, recalling Alexander Liberman's oeuvre.
Barbara Tfank, who presented her collection in the Leila Heller Gallery, translated Francesco Guardi's classical paintings of Venice into elegant, ornate, gold-dusted sheath dresses and coats. (Watch Tfank talk to Blouin Artinfo about her collection.)
Recent exhibitions, as usual, proved fertile ground for ideas as well. Pamella Roland, inspired by T.J. Wilcox's panoramic film installation “In the Air" (2013) at the Whitney Museum, appropriated graphic outlines of the city scape on sheer body con blouses and sequined bias-cut slip dresses. Meanwhile, the Proenza Schouler duo (of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez) cited ceramicist Ron Nagle’s recent installation at the Venice Biennale as a possible starting point.
And what’s a runway show without Andy Warhol’s flowers, somewhere, somehow? This season, Thakoon’s Patagonia-inspired collection was awash with Technicolor blooms layered over ruched chiffon in inventive pieces — like a “turtleneck shoulder topper”.
