Whether traditional, modern or contemporary, art was undoubtedly the leading inspiration behind many spring/summer 2014 collections presented at Milan Fashion Week.
Frida Giannini at Gucci returned to the label's roots with a sensual collection of clothes that utilized sportswear materials, such as black mesh. The Studio 54 vibe was accompanied by elegant motifs inspired by one of the most popular illustrators of Art Nouveau, Erté, resulting in a palette made up of blacks, orange and brown glitter.
Alberta Ferretti presented her version of the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, through the use of popular colors, patterns and hairstyles in South America. But Ferretti's woman is not suffering — rather, she seems celebratory, in flowing robes that radiate energy with its vibrant colors and flower motifs.
At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini cited "the world of information technology" as inspiration. So it was with stitching and embroidery that motherboards and chips translated into gradated-color dresses that reminded one of the work of the artist Jonas Lund, but also the recent installation by James Turrell at the Guggenheim Museum in New York. It is no coincidence that "light" was a key point of the collection.
While other designers drew from art already in existence, Prada simply produced its own. Always one step ahead of the rest, the Milanese label not only staged a show with giant backdrops painted by street artists such as Mesa, El Mac, Stinkfish and Gabriel Specter and illustrators Detallante Jeanne and Pierre Mornet, but also used some of their illustrations as prints on the clothes, resulting in a powerful explosion of colors, bodices covered with stones, and multicolored furs. "I'm every woman," declared Miuccia Prada self-assuredly.
Etro remained true to its hippy-chic heritage, sending out a collection heavy on seventies-style paisley prints that were inspired by the traditional art of the Ottoman Empire, in light materials and soft silhouettes.
The queen of minimalism, Jil Sander, eager to reinforce her message since returning to her namesake label last year, did what she does best: precise cuts and rigorous monochrome, though she did include four looks inspired by the colorful works of Alighiero Boetti.
Meanwhile, Gabriele Colangelo explained that a recent trip to Japan influenced his collection, which turned out to be a selection of elegant looks that were his interpretation of Raku, the ancient art of Japanese pottery.
Dolce & Gabbana continued their love affair with Sicily, this time with a collection that referenced the influence of ancient Greece on the southern Italian island. Accompanying the prints of almond blossoms and temple ruins were accessories of large ancient Roman coins, recalling Federico Fellini's "Satyricon". With clothes richly made and a show spectacularly put on as always, the duo continues to monetize (here almost literally) the love that Italians have for their country and the fascination foreigners have for its complex and ancient history. It's a smart and luxurious "copy-paste" formula they can use as long as they like.
Emilio Pucci's creative director Peter Dundas steered away this time from the house's classic prints, exploring instead sportswear, African themes, and the mashup of both. Think gym clothes inspired by the traditional Moroccan djellaba robe and decorated with Masai beads.
Sportswear was also a central theme for Aquilano.Rimondi, which the duo managed to elevate by looking at the Polynesian period of the painter Paul Gauguin. Whether in the color palette or in the whole reproduction of the French master's works on tops, the runway was virtually transformed into a gallery on the go.
Antonio Marras, on the other hand, has always considered fashion a form of art. For his summer collection, the Sardinian designer created an enchanted forest, replete with dreamy dresses embellished with hand-painted details. Even quoting Ovid's Metamorphoses in his show notes, his inspiration for this fairy-like collection was the work of American artist Kathy Ruttenberg.
And from Les Copains, a line of traditional knitwear was brought to life with touches of color, inspired by Georgia O'Keeffe's Poppy paintings.
Click here for a slideshow of these canvases on the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week.
