Interior designer Stéphane Parmentier has a lot on his plate these days: following last summer’s Left Bank pop-up for Hermès and a floor-to-ceiling revamp of the Christofle flagship in New York City, he is currently putting the final touches on the French silversmith’s LA pop-up on Melrose Place (opening in April) and shop-in-shop at Harrod’s in London. Also imminent is the unveiling of the designer’s one-off room divider in lacquered perforated metal and marble, a monumental piece designed for Wallpaper’s Handmade showcase at the Milan Furniture Fair (opening April 9th).
On the eve of Art Paris(March 28–April 1), a 144-gallery modern and contemporary affair at the Grand Palais, the designer agreed to share some of his favorite Paris addresses. “For those with a keen eye, there is always something to be found at the fair—pieces that are strong, that teach you something.” The same could be said about the city itself.
If Parmentier were a tourist, he’d bed down at the Hôtel Thoumieux. “It has its own music and language,” he says of the unique design by India Mahdavi. “It’s at once audacious and intimate, masculine and feminine, contemporary and slightly nostalgic—it feels like a little house, well-located and yet one feels protected.”
The ground-floor brasserie Thoumieux is a favorite among the Paris glitterati; the first-floor restaurant run by Jean-François Piege is widely considered one of the best tables in town, yet its prices remain reasonable. (Reservations are required and are taken no more than two weeks in advance).
Picks for your palette to suit all price ranges: high, medium and affordable.
On the upper end, Parmentier finds Alain Passard at Arpège to be an “extraordinary fighter.” At a time when a lot of cuisine involves smoke and mirrors, Passard is all about substance, L’essentiel. “Every time I go there, I discover things in a new way. He champions vegetables. And his faux simplicity is genius—they seem like they are ‘in the rough’ yet they transport you to a place that’s entirely new.”
“Whenever I go to Restaurant Saturne I let the sommelier take over,” says Parmentier of his mid-range pick, a simply gorgeous eatery with Nordic ambiance of blonde wood, black beams, and an open kitchen. “Thanks to him I have discovered some truly incredible wines. The lunch menu at 30 euros is quite reasonable. It’s a wonderful way to discover new, interesting dishes in a very contemporary setting.”
Low cost: Parmentier loves Le Camion Qui Fume for its killer French fries and the whole notion of lunch on wheels—“I love its freedom. It may be known for long lines, but I’ve found the best way to go is show up at the Place de La Madeleine on Tuesdays or Fridays.”
Parmentier stays as far away from as possible from all those atrocious newfangled bars in “shades of purple, orange, and brown” and instead opts for the classics.
“There aren’t enough old bars left, it’s a shame. Get drinks on the deck of any of the péniches (houseboats) along the quais near Notre Dame—they’re all so charming.” Too touristy you, say? “I think the perspective from here is absolutely magical,” he explains, “and I find myself under the spell of Paris whenever I go. To tell yourself it's touristy is to deprive yourself of something really special. It goes back to what is essential. For me it works every time.”
“It may sound classic, but for me Beaubourg”— local slang for the Pompidou Centre—“offers a marvelous synthesis of art in just a few floors, especially the always incredibly staged shows on living and 20th century artists. I love the sheer scope of modern and contemporary art that you find here. You see families here with their children, which says a lot about the space. It’s open-spirited and encourages learning no matter the age. So it’s a must.”
As a lover of contemporary art and contradiction, Parmentier also gives his unabashed adoration to the Palais de Tokyo. “Whenever I go there I discover incredible things. You’ll never leave indifferent: it lets art fulfill its role of making you question yourself and the world around you. For me, the Palais de Tokyo is like a homing device. I try to hit both it and the Beaubourg in one day to get a sense of how things are evolving.”
Aside from the galleries on rue de Lille, where Parmentier says you can find him wandering toujours, his favorites include:
Carpenters Workshop Gallery (54 rue de la Verrerie, 4th)
Galerie Armel Soyer (19-21 rue Chapon, 3rd) — “I find it really interesting and courageous. It’s a young gallery, and I thing it’s gutsy to open in these times with that point of view.”
HP Antiquités-Le Studio (1 rue Allent, 7th) — “This is a tiny little space entirely done in woodwork, and although there is very little here, everything is absolutely stunning.”
“I love all of Paris. But what I love most are the quays. Walking on the quays sums up Paris for me. There’s the Right Bank, the Left Bank, the river that runs through it, and the islands in the middle: it’s Paris, concentrated. I love sitting on the Ile de la Cité or the Pont des Arts and I look at both sides of the city.”
Although if he had to choose one place that he’s absolutely crazy about, it would be the architecture of the Acne Boutique (3 rue Froissart, 3rd). “It’s an incredible piece of Parisian micro-architecture, extremely contemporary and well-conceived, with incredible materials. It’s a true reflection of the times. Just extraordinary.”
“Pierre Hardy is a friend, but even if he weren’t I couldn’t live without his shoes. You could be wearing the ugliest pants and the most common of cheap white tees, but wearing the right shoes changes everything.” There are three boutiques in Paris that serve men and women alike.
For food shopping, Parmentier can’t say enough about the Parisian food markets. “I find that one of the only things we have left is eating well! Crossing town to find the best of whatever it is—the best pâtissier, the best butcher—it’s all extraordinary. Alain Ducasse just opened a chocolate factory and shop, Chocolat (40 rue de la Roquette, 11th) with equally delicious décor. The Grand Epicerie is also fabulous. For me, that is also the magic of Paris: it’s real, everyday life.”
As the interior and design editor of Le Printemps, Parmentier has also been inspiring a youthquake through the famed department store’s Hausmann location. The in-store vintage market on the 5th floor keeps him particularly busy, as it requires a refresh every couple of weeks. “We have museum-quality pieces signed by Le Corbusier, for example, as well as unsigned pieces that we chose simply because they’re beautiful and we love them,” explains the designer. “I love mixing up periods and styles and bringing a different flavor to the floor. It’s about creating a dialogue between contemporary works and older pieces. Incorporating a vintage market was an absolute évidence.”
On the eve of Art Paris, the busy interior designer opens up about his favorite shops, restaurants, galleries, and the best place to grab a drink.