Palm Springs is the ultimate weekend getaway, especially for fans of mid-century modern architecture. It was this evocation of the casual cool California lifestyle that drew interior designer Tracy Beckmann to the Coachella Valley. (Over the course of three years she meticulously renovated the Desert Hot Springs Motel — originally designed by architect John Lautner in 1947 for movie director Lucien Hubbard — with her best friend/business partner/furniture designer Ryan Trowbridge into the award-winning modernist dream, the four-suite boutique Hotel Lautner.) And it’s what draws art lovers from around the world for Palm Springs Fine Art Fair (February 15–17). Here, Beckmann gives us her picks on what makes the city tick.
Beckmann ranks Workshop Kitchen and Bar as her favorite restaurant for its amazing food (especially the braised oxtail shepherd’s pie and the wood charred Brussels sprouts), cocktails to die for, and uber-chic interior design. “Besides being a great chef, owner Michael Beckman (no relation) is a very handsome and charismatic man who knows how to make his guests feel special with great food and a smile.”
Coming in at No.2, is pizza and cocktails at Birba, with its laid back and sexy atmosphere. “I love to dine al fresco surrounded by olive trees and fire pits. My favorite pizza is a picante white pizza topped with rapini, homemade sausage, and gorgonzola.”
For the best martini and people watching, head to Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Inn, one of the oldest piano bars in Palm Springs — and possibly the most cinematic. “What’s better than being greeted at the door by a tuxedo-clad maître d' and having a lovely mature cocktail waitress deliver one of the best martinis you’ve ever had, all the while listening to the sexy sounds of Frank Sinatra being sung by some guy wearing a fedora with a tip jar full of singles?”
“The Palm Springs Art Museum is one of my favorite places to visit while I’m in the desert. The modern building designed by renowned California architect E. Stewart Williams is worth the trip alone.”
No surprise, given her hotel’s pedigree, Beckmann humbly names the Elrod House, by her favorite American architect John Lautner, as the most stunning piece of architecture in Palm Springs. “I am a huge lover of all things concrete and this house embodies what an art form working with concrete can be. Not to mention this house offers one of the most beautiful views of the desert I have ever seen.”
For vintage modern furniture and lighting, Beckmann’s go-to every time she visits is Modernway, an impressive collection by owner Courtney Newman.
And when she wishes to surround herself with all things “glamourous and cool,” a stop in the fabulous triumvirate of Trina Turkboutiques is a must: the original Womenswear (housed in a 1960s Albert Frey building), the newly introduced Mr. Turk (menswear), and next to that, Residential (an amazing home collection). “The last thing I bought was a swanky floral pattern jacket for my business partner at Mr. Turk. It was for a photo shoot of the two of us for James Schnepf's Palm Springs Project.”
If the Hotel Lautner is booked, Beckmann sends her friends to Korakia. “This beautiful little place was the reason I decided to go into the hotel business in the desert. There is nothing like sleeping in your own bit of Moroccan heaven.
The Horizon Hotel also gets top nods. “It’s very mid-century modern chic. Staying there you’d almost expect to see Hollywood starlets from the golden era sipping champagne poolside.”
1. Don’t try to do too much on your first visit.
2. Bask in the sun by the pool, sipping on a delicious cocktail or two.
3. Don’t be in a hurry to go anywhere until the sun goes down. At night, head out for a romantic dinner and soak up the amazing atmosphere that surrounds you.
Outdoor activities in the desert — “Hiking trails, waterfalls, jeep adventures, Joshua Tree... I had no idea!”
Hotel Lautner celebrates Palm Springs Modernism Week (February 14-24) with a behind-the-scenes tour and reception with artist Danny Heller. Click here for tickets and info.
In town for the Palm Springs Fine Art Fair? Tracy Beckmann, co-owner of the Hotel Lautner, gives us a Modernist’s insider guide to her desert enclave.