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A Royal Welcome for Culture Vultures

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Fred Mawer
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The Hague – Courtesy of Arts Holland
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The Hague is best known for being the home of the International Court of Justice and the seat of the Dutch government. It's also a city of royal palaces—the Dutch monarch Queen Beatrix lives and works here—and visitors will discover diverse artworks in its many museums and galleries.

 

 

Picture: The Hague – Courtesy of Marie-ii via flickr

 

 

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Gemeentemuseum Den Haag – Courtesy of Gemeentemuseum Den Haag
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Gemeentemuseum Den Haag

 

The Hague's leading art museum is the Gemeentemuseum Den Haag. Housed in a 1930s brick building that is an icon of Dutch modernism, it was designed by Hendrik Petrus Berlage and has a beautiful hall decorated in brightly colored tiles. The vast collection includes an entire wing of paintings by the Dutch De Stijl artist Piet Mondrian, displayed alongside furniture, interior design, and architectural models from the De Stijl movement. At present, other big draws are the Rembrandts, Vermeers, and other 17th-century Dutch masterpieces that are usually shown in the Mauritshuis (currently closed for renovations through 2014). There is far too much in the Gemeentemuseum to absorb in a single visit. If time allows, seek out exhibitions on the museum's wide-ranging 19th- and 20th-century art, Delftware through the ages, and, until February 3, 2013, 1950s fashion.

 

 

Picture: Gemeentemuseum Den Haag – Courtesy of Gemeentemuseum Den Haag

 

 

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GEM

Located alongside the Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, GEM's focus is challenging, cutting-edge exhibitions. For example, the main artwork in Nabeeld (Afterimage) by Dutch artist Amie Dicke is a monumental "pond" of fading photographs (through January 6, 2013). Your admission ticket also includes entry to The Hague Museum of Photography, based in the same building. The first major retrospective of American portrait photographer Arnold Newman since his death in 2006 runs there through January 13, 2013. The exhibition includes a photograph of Otto Frank—father of Anne Frank—lost in thought at the opening of the Amsterdam house where the Frank family hid from the Nazis.

 

 

Picture: GEM – Courtesy of Roel Wijnants via flickr

 

 

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Museum Beelden aan Zee – Courtesy of Gerard Stolk via flickr
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Museum Beelden aan Zee

In the Dutch resort of Scheveningen, one of the Hague's eight districts, the Museum Beelden aan Zee occupies a purpose-built building of concrete and granite that's been sunk into the dunes behind the beach. The works on show are all expressions of the human form. Jan Meefout's marble Venus is one of the most beautiful creations, while a set of busts depicting current members of the royal family, positioned on high pillars, is another must see. But perhaps the most enjoyable sculptures are the 23 bronze figures by American sculptor Tom Otterness, arranged along the waterfront promenade. The 43-foot high Herring Eater, head cocked back to swallow a fish, is particularly fun.

 

 

Picture: Museum Beelden aan Zee – Courtesy of Gerard Stolk via flickr

 

 

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Binnenhof – Courtesy of Geert Wirken
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Binnenhof

No first trip to The Hague is complete without a visit to the Binnenhof, a complex of historic buildings set around a large cobbled courtyard that has been the epicenter of politics in Holland for many centuries. Visitors can explore the courtyard unaccompanied, however a guided tour is recommended to fully appreciate the historical and architectural significance of the buildings. Depending on the day of your visit (check the website for details), you may be able to gain access to the Ridderzaal (the Hall of Knights), a turreted, medieval building used for state ceremonies, the Senate, and House of Representatives. Members of the public can observe politicians debating in the House of Representatives' semicircular assembly hall, part of a sleek new building, attached to the south side of the Ridderzaal, that opened in 1992. It's said that the hall's floor is green to represent the Dutch landscape, its chairs are shaped like tulip petals, and the ceiling is gray to signify rain clouds.

 

 

Picture: Binnenhof – Courtesy of Geert Wirken

 

 

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Nederlands Dans Theater – Courtesy of Nederlands Dans Theater
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Cultural Performances, Events, and Festivals

The Nederlands Dans Theater is held in the highest regard around the world for its innovative contemporary dance. The company is often on tour, but check to see if it is performing at its base in the Lucent Danstheater; a striking building designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas specifically for dance performances. Other highlights in The Hague's cultural calendar include the ARTI fair (October 2–6, 2013), which combines art, design, music, and culinary activities in the Fokker terminal, a former plane hanger. Crossing Border (November 13–16, 2013) is a long-established international festival mixing literature, music, film, and visual art. Big names who have appeared include Salman Rushdie and Jay McInerney.

 

 

Picture: Nederlands Dans Theater – Courtesy of Nederlands Dans Theater

 

 

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Hotel des Indes – Courtesy of Hotel des Indes
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Hotel des Indes

The Hotel des Indes has long been one of the Netherlands' top hotels. Over the decades, it has hosted numerous heads of state, generals, and celebrities—in 1931, the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova died in what is now the cigar room. Despite its prestigious history, the hotel does not feel stuck in the past. In 2006, French interior designer Jacques Garcia gave it a complete makeover. Acres of velvet and plentiful gold trim set an opulent tone in the French restaurant and the grandiose lounge, where you can tuck into four-course afternoon High Teas. The 92 guest rooms are equally plush, with tasseled lamps, pineapple-shaped chandeliers, and marble bathrooms. The hotel's corridors haven't been overlooked; its walls are decorated with hand-painted tulips. The location on the elegant, tree-lined Lange Voorhout is a short stroll from the antique shops and art galleries lining the Denneweg.
 

 

Picture: Hotel des Indes – Courtesy of Hotel des Indes

 

 

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Discover the art and culture packed into Holland's four major cities: Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Utrecht, and The Hague by visiting www.artsholland.com.

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A Royal Welcome for Culture Vultures
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The Hague isn't all politics—it's also a city of palaces and museums

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