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Rome Without Crowds

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Lee Marshall
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The Colosseum by Moonlight
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Courtesy of Tim Sackton via Flickr
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The Colosseum is ancient Rome's biggest standout monument. Visited at night, however, it takes on a more dreamlike air. After-hours Colosseum tours run on Thursdays and Saturdays through summer, with three conducted in English. They provide more than just atmosphere: An archaeologist explains ancient Roman construction techniques and details the Colosseum's colorful history. The more expensive 9:45 pm tour also descends into the underground cells where wild animals were held before being released into the arena.

 

Booking is obligatory: +39 06 39967700; €15/€20.

 

Photo: Courtesy of Tim Sackton via Flickr 

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Casa di Augusto
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Your regular ticket for the Colosseum and Forum also gives you access to some well-concealed extras in the archaeological area. A must-see is the dramatically stuccoed and frescoed House of Augustus on the Palatine. The home of the Roman Empire's first true supreme ruler can be visited by just five people at any time—but the line is never long. Inside, cheeky imps peer out between exquisite trompe l'oeil painted columns, panelling, precious gems, and floral swags.

 

Note that the Casa di Augusto has restricted opening times: Mondays, Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays 11 am to 3:30 pm; entry, €12.

 

Photo: Courtesy of Madeline Ball via Flickr

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Saturday Concerts at the Doria Pamphilj Gallery
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Courtesy of GiacomoReturned via Wikimedia Commons
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The private art collection on show at the Doria Pamphilj gallery is rarely crowded with visitors, giving you plenty of time and space to admire the exquisite works by Caravaggio, Titian, Breugel, Velasquez, and others that grace its aristocratic halls. Get there for 11 am on Saturday, however, and your experience of this magnificent noble pile on centralissima Via del Corso becomes very special indeed. After a guided tour of the gallery's masterpieces, led by an art historian, visitors are treated to a Baroque concert on period instruments in the palazzo's throne room.

 

Booking is recommended: +39 388 1975179; full admission €30.

 

Photo: Courtesy of GiacomoReturned via Wikimedia Commons

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Casa-Museo Giorgio de Chirico
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Courtesy of Massimo Listri, Florence, 2010
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The former home of Giorgio De Chirico must rank as one of Rome's least-visited sights, despite the enduring popularity of the founder of the Metaphysical school of painting. The elegant house is part-gallery, part-shrine, with the artist's belongings—from paint-covered brushes to sad-looking plastic fruit—arranged as lovingly as he left them when he died in 1978. Throughout 2012, a special exhibit entitled D'Après Giorgio shows works by contemporary artists interacting with the Casa-Museo and the spirit of the Greek-born Italian proto-surrealist.

 

Booking is obligatory: +39 06 6796546; €5.

 

Photo: Courtesy of Massimo Listri, Florence, 2010

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Gregorian Chant at Sant'Anselmo
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Courtesy of Jensens via Wikimedia Commons
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The Aventine hill is a peaceful place for an evening stroll away from the city's crowds. There are two heart-stopping views from these leafy surroundings: the first is over the centro storico from the Parco Savello, the second is of the dome of St .Peter's framed in the keyhole of the Knights of Malta's HQ in Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. Also in this square is the church of Sant'Anselmo, where Benedictine monks sing exquisite, ethereal Gregorian Chant at the daily vespers service, which starts at 7:15 pm. And it's free.

 

Photo: Courtesy of Jensens via Wikimedia Commons

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Palazzo Colonna
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Courtesy of Palazzo Colonna
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Rome's noble Colonna family traces its roots to the 12th century and many of its illustrious ancestors are portrayed in the Palazzo Colonna gallery, which opens to a few well-informed visitors on Saturday mornings. Marcantonio Colonna led the victorious Christian fleet at the Battle of Levanto in 1571; he now takes pride of place in the magnificent ceiling fresco that dominates the gilded, stuccoed Great Hall. There are works by Annibale Carracci and Guido Reni, Salvator Rosa and Bronzino. Follow your culture fix with a caffeine fix at the recently added café on a terrace overlooking the palazzo's celebrated (but rarely seen) walled gardens.

 

Full admission €10.

 

Photo: Courtesy of Palazzo Colonna

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