March 5 marked Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati’s last runway show for the revered French fashion house, after eight years at the helm. Pilati’s first collection in spring 2005 introduced the tulip skirt, which became a women’s wardrobe staple. His following collections earned both praise and criticism: the Tribute sandal became the must-have item of spring 2008, while New York Times critic Cathy Horyn noted: “At times he seemed to struggle with the brand’s legacy and its future.”
Yves Saint Laurent co-founder Pierre Bergé snubbed Pilati repeatedly, by not inviting him to the opening gala of the Petit Palais Yves Saint Laurent retrospective in 2010 and refusing to attend Pilati’s fashion shows, while supporting other young designers such as Hedi Slimane and Riccardo Tisci. Like the fashion house’s namesake — who created pieces inspired by Van Gogh, Picasso, and Mondrian throughout his storied career — Pilati was often influenced by the art world, from 17th-century Flemish paintings of nuns to Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs of men in leather. Museums like Centre Pompidou and the Palais de Tokyo also served as venues for runway shows. Here, we take a look back at how art played a role in Pilati’s Yves Saint Laurent collections.
Click on the slide show to see how art played a role in Stefano Pilati's tenure at Yves Saint Laurent.