Not too long ago, a group of experts at Christie's figured something out: "old world" wine collectors and Old Master painting collectors are often the same people. This January they began experimenting with tasteful pairings of these two categories, and on Wednesday the house will hold a series of auctions designed to keep lovers of art and wine lifting their paddles throughout the day. The morning will be filled with the first leg of the Old Master auction (which continues Thursday), the afternoon brings "art of France" (a special sale of French Old Masters), and the evening is reserved for a curated sale of rare French wines.
But for the non-connoisseur, it can be difficult to figure out just what exactly makes French wines so special — or even to try to decipher what the catalogue is actually trying to say. In anticipation of the sale, BLOUIN ARTINFO created a primer to understanding French wine, just in case you feel like swinging by Rockefeller Center on Wednesday at 5 p.m. (After all, there are plenty of lots available under $1,000 for the new collector.)
REGION
In many "new world" wine regions (that is, non-European), wines are classified by type of grape — think pinot noir, merlot, chardonnay. French wines, however, are generally referred to by their region of origin. The wines from each region are often similar — Champagne is known for its sparkling wine (usually white or rosé, but sometimes red as well), while Burgundy and Bordeaux are known for their reds (though Burgundy produces many fine whites as well) — and many of the best wines are produced using a blend of different grape varieties. Bordeaux wines usually blend cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and occasionally cabernet franc. Burgundy reds are more often pinot noir, and the region's whites are made from chardonnay. The region, however, only just begins to narrow down the wine's flavor.
TERROIR AND A.O.C.
Terroir is probably the most important term in French winemaking. It is an all-encompassing term that refers to the microclimates, topography, and soil makeup of the land, all of which contribute to the subtle variations in taste from one vineyard to the next. France awards special designations to its regions and vineyards based on terroir. There are four levels of designation, from table wine to A.O.C., or Appellation d'Origine Controlée. The A.O.C. guarantees the quality and type of wine, and sets up legal protections to guard against imposters. The region of Burgundy has its own A.O.C. designation, which covers over 300 villages in the region — but within the region there are also separate A.O.C.'s for vineyards where the terroir is exceptional. For example, A.O.C. Romanée-Conti Grand Cru covers just four acres within Burgundy. Wines from that tiny speck on the map consistently top the list of highest-priced wine at auction. At Christie's Wednesday, a lot consisting of just three bottles of 2002 Romanée-Conti is estimated to sell for $22,000-28,000 (that's $7,333-9,333 per bottle, or $290-370 per ounce of wine).
ESTATES AND GRAND CRUS
Discussion of wine auctions in 2011 were basically synonymous with news articles about Château Lafite Rothschild (pronounced: roth-shield), which has experienced a huge surge in popularity in China in the last few years. Lafite is one of several designated vineyards to be at the level of "grand cru," or great growth, which comes from an 1855 classification system within Bordeaux that designated the area's best wine-growing estates into one of five different "growths." The most coveted of these are the "first growth" grand cru estates: Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton-Rothschild. Even though the system was conceived 150 years ago, many of these vineyards are still producing the best wines in the world.
Today, "grand cru" has branched beyond Bordeaux, and in other regions of France refers to the best land (not necessarily a specific estate) on which wine is grown in regions such as Champagne, Burgundy, Alsace, and the Loire valley. The original Bordeaux first growth wines are classified as "premier grand cru," and are the kings of the wine auction market. In 2011, the top nine of Christie's top 10 wine sales were lots of Bordeaux premier grand cru wines (the 10th was a Burgundy).
VINTAGE
Not all bottles from the same vineyard are created equal, though. Every year is different. Subtle changes in weather can affect the taste of the wine, so certain years — or vintages — are more sought-after than others. Being as many of the grand cru estates are relatively small, in a good year they might sell out of their product, meaning that the only place to turn is the secondary market, which pushes up the price for the most sought-after vintages. Additionally, the finest wines get better with age, and are often at their best years or even decades after they are produced. Picking up a case of 1982 Château Latour at auction in 2012 is like deciding the day of a sold-out concert to buy tickets off of scalpers at the front door. Instant gratification can be bought — but you have to be willing to pay the premium.