Of all the historic Place Vendôme players, only one has resisted the call of the luxury groups: Mellerio dits Meller. The storied family-owned house, located on Paris’s Rue de la Paix, also happens to be the world’s oldest jeweler, clocking in just over 400 years of existence, having survived countless wars, including the French Revolution and the occupation of France during WWII.
A framed picture of Marie-Antoinette hanging in one of the salons of the company’s flagship pays testament to another claim to fame - as jeweler of the queens. The house also owes its very existence to one of France’s high profile sovereigns—Marie de Médicis, who on October 10, 1613, issued a royal decree granting the family trading privileges in the French kingdom.
A legend passed down through the family narrates the story behind the decree. The story goes that the Mellerios, a family of Italian origin—who prior to going into jewelry, peddled small luxury objects, such as tobacco boxes—moved to Paris from their village of Craveggia in the Vigezzo Valley in northwestern Italy in 1515, settling on Rue des Lombards - then home to the city’s Italian community. It so happened that one of their new neighbors, Jaques Pido, owned a chimney sweep business, and one of his main clients was the Palais du Louvre. One day, when one of Pido’s workers overheard a plot to kill the country’s young king, Louis XIII, it fell upon Giovanni Mellerio, Giacomo del Braccio, and Saverio Tadini, as elected consuls of the community of the Rue des Lombards, to take action.
After intense deliberation, they consulted Leonora Galigai, a confidant of Marie de’ Médicis, who in turn informed the regent. The plotters were arrested, and the aforementioned decree was awarded to the informants for services rendered to the court.
Another known theory is that the decree was linked to a diplomatic role played by the Mellerios, who in exchange, guaranteed exclusivity of passageway through its village’s valley— a strategic route from France to Milan—during the Thirty Years’ War, for instance. Each of the successive kings of France renewed these privileges to the Mellerios. And it was Philippe, Duke of Orléans, in 1716, who extended the decree to commerce of mounted jewelry, goldsmithery, and precious stones. Marie de Médicis is believed to have ordered creations from the Mellerios, though the house’s first jewelry purchase by a royal is said to be a bracelet of seven cameos, interlinked by rubies sold by Jean-Baptiste Mellerio to Marie-Antoinette, who offered the creation to one of her ladies-in-waiting, Madame de Bladis. The piece today belongs to a private collection. A number of ladies from the ill-fated queen’s entourage, including Madame de Craufurd and Pauline de Tourzel, the last governess of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette’s children, are also said to have purchased jewelry from Mellerio dits Meller, both before and after the French Revolution.
In Mellerio’s history, the queen with the greatest appetite for precious stones was Queen Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis-Philippe, the last king to rule France, who reigned from 1830 to 1848, according to Vincent Meylan, author of Mellerio dits Meller, Jeweler to the Queens, which was released in 2013 during the house’s 400th anniversary celebrations. “Marie-Amélie bought pieces from Mellerio almost every week between the years 1818 and 1860, hence across 42 years,” he said, adding that she owned a stunning set in emeralds and diamonds signed by Mellerio, made up of a necklace, tiara, drop earrings, and a Sévigné brooch. “She shopped for herself, but would also buy gifts for her children and family, and her daughters also became loyal customers of Mellerio; altogether the orders from this one family alone would have represented several hundreds of pieces,” said Meylan. “Mellerio dits Meller for sure has the richest number of links to royalty and royal courts, but for one simple reason—its age. The house has existed for 400 years, which on average is four times the lifetime of any other jeweler.”
According to Jean Ghika, director, jewelry department U.K. & Europe at Bonhams, Mellerio dits Meller pieces rarely come up at auction, citing among the most recent pieces sold by the house, brooches ranging in date from the 19th Century to the 1950s. “I certainly think Mellerio is a prestigious jewelry house and is known for creating jewels for French and Spanish royalty in the 18th and 19th Centuries...The jewels, with French assay marks, appear in Mellerio fitted cases, and are thus attributable, but are usually unsigned,” she said. Marie-Laurence Tixier, the Paris jewelry department director for Christie’s, whose most important recent Mellerio dits Meller sales include a sapphire and diamond brooch that sold for US$3.64 million, agreed that pieces by the house are hard to come by. “I think it’s because they tend to stay within families who hold onto them as heirlooms,” she said.
Of all of the generations of Mellerios, François Mellerio, who moved the company to Rue de la Paix in 1815, figures among the most important figures in the family’s history, meanwhile, according to Emilie Mellerio, who, as president of the board, is the first ever woman to hold an executive position in the history of the company.
“He was a true visionary and made the company what it is today, or at least set the foundations for it to develop and become what it was in the 19th Century, referring to the House’s richest period. “But what is interesting in the dynasty is that each of my ancestors were very different from one other, each one brought his own sensibility,” continued Mellerio, who for her own part brings “this combination of right brain and left brain,” having trained both in creation and business analysis (Mellerio’s CV includes a six-year stint at LVMH-owned jeweler and watchmaker Zenith—first at Zenith International Switzerland, then Zenith France). Her vision for the company moving forward remains service oriented, with the desire to increase the focus on made to order, which until 2004 (the year in which the company entered new markets like Asia and the Middle East, and started creating reproducible lines, specializing in engagement rings), made up “99%” of the company’s business, versus around 60% today.
The small company operates a few points of sale and shop-in-shops in Japan, though France remains its first market.
Though the jeweler’s archives house around 500 books tracing orders and visitors to the boutique across the centuries (one of the oldest stock inventories is dated 1766, likely penned by Jean-François Mellerio), along with correspondence between the house and its clients and suppliers, plaster jewelry molds, and 120,000 drawings from 1820 to the 1950s, a lot of information has been passed down orally, confirmed Mellerio who, like every generation of Mellerios, grew up immersed in the company’s history and creations. She brought her own daughter to visit the company when she was just two years old. “It’s also a way for us to make sure we can pass on the knowledge and passion to the next generation.” The idea behind the house’s name, which in English means “Mellerio aka Meller,” was to mix the Italian and French versions of Mellerio, she said, as “when we arrived in France in 1515, being Italian was not really an asset.” This interesting mix of Italian and French also pervades the House’s jewelry designs. “We have the Italian origins, with all the enthusiasm, the love of beauty, detail, and rich design, and also the very classic French tradition. We are not as Italian as Buccellati can be and we are not as French as Chaumet or Cartier can be,” said Mellerio.
In terms of image, Mellerio dits Meller over the centuries, has built a reputation for its graceful designs, impressive stones and technical and stylistic innovations. After all, they had a constant flow of influential royals to please. The company has recorded a number of patents across its history, such as for Paris’s inaugural Exhibition Universelle (great exhibition) in 1855, where the house introduced one of its innovations: a brooch with a flexible stem meant to mimic a leaf moving in nature. Then, at a later edition in 1867, they presented what was possibly the first ever jewelry interpretation of a peacock—a key motif of the Art Nouveau movement, which came much later.
Innovation was also front and center in the house’s 400th the Médicis Collection, by guest jewelry designer Édéenne, who dedicated the line to Marie de Médicis. Édéenne was inspired by the modernity of the queen, who is said to have maintained an unbridled passion for jewelry, and would sport gems in her hair and all over her body, even sewing them onto clothes. She is also said to have designed her own jewelry and knew how to cut stones. In that spirit, several pieces in the new collection offer new ways of wearing jewelry, such as the breathtaking openwork articulated necklace shaped like a regal raised collar. Comprising 15 ultra rare rubies, the piece took 4,800 hours to craft. Borrowing a clever system used on the chatelaine watches created by the house in the 19th century, meanwhile, a stunning brooch is designed to clip to the bra in the hollow of the wearer’s breasts, leaving a cascade of strings of pearls ending in emerald buds to move freely. Édéenne chose as the line’s central motif, the lily - a flower never before interpreted by Mellerio dits Meller, despite blooms and naturalism being one of the house’s main codes.
“For the anniversary, we wanted to inject a strong creative impulse, something really new,” said Mellerio for whom Édéenne (who by coincidence became a jewelry designer following a diving accident in Lake Maggiore, a stone’s throw from the cradle of the Mellerio family), was the right anniversary fit. “She’s a bit different, a bit out of the box,” said Mellerio.
“There is always a risk being 400 years old; the talk is always about how old we are, but actually the reason we are still alive today is that we kept on being creative the whole time. And we strive to continue to do that.”